Audi A4 B7 2.0T FSI Tune [EA113] (BPG/BWT)

STAGE 1: 250 HP / 290 LB-FT
STAGE 2: 270 HP / 300 LB-FT
STAGE 2+: 275 HP / 310 LB-FT
STAGE 3: 335 HP / 335 LB-FT ON A K04

Fits

Audi A4 B7 2.0T, the EA113 FSI mounted longitudinally, engine codes BPG and BWT. BPG is the 2005.5-2006 car and BWT the 2007-2008, the same engine with a revised code for later production. 200 hp from the factory, K03S turbo, Bosch MED9.1. Pick your stage in the dropdown. The calibration is written for your engine code and your hardware, and it is its own calibration, not the GTI tune. Not sure which code you have? Find your engine code in two minutes.

Not this listing: the transverse 2.0T FSI in the MK5 GTI, Jetta GLI, Passat B6, EOS, Audi A3 8P and TT 8J (BPY, BWA, AXX) is on the 2.0T FSI listing. A 2005 A4 with the 1.8T is the B6 (AMB) and has its own listing. The 2009 and later B8 A4 2.0T is the EA888 and starts at the B8 listing. The EA113 2.0T Tuning Guide shows which one you have.

What the tune does

Written for 93 octane / 98 RON and adapts to 91 / 95. Stage 1 takes a stock car from 200 hp to 250 hp and 290 lb-ft on the K03 without asking anything of it: sharper throttle response, the soft midrange fixed, and boost and timing set for the fuel you actually run. Stage 2 goes to 270 hp and 300 lb-ft once the exhaust is on. Stage 2+ adds the high-pressure fuel pump upgrade for 275 hp and 310 lb-ft, and it opens the door to E85 blends. Stage 3 swaps the K03 for a K04 and takes the car to 335 hp and 335 lb-ft. Every stage: lag removed, speed limiter removed, rev limit raised to 7000, and better mileage when you are not in it. Tested on the street and the track to be smooth yet powerful. You do not need the pump upgrade for the Stage 1 and Stage 2 figures. Stage 2+ is for the owners who want the headroom.

Stages on this listing

Stage 1 wakes it up. Stage 2 pulls the K03 to its ceiling. Stage 3 swaps to a K04. Stage 4 is for the people who decided the K04 was not enough either.

What you need on the car

• Stage 1: nothing. Stage 1 runs on a completely stock car. An upgraded diverter valve is recommended at every stage: the early diaphragm valves split, boost leaks back into the intake, and the car feels like it is holding itself back. The revised piston-style valve is a cheap part and a short job.
• Stage 2: an upgraded exhaust. The calibration is built around the improved airflow, and an intake helps it breathe. The RS4 fuel pressure relief valve (P/N 079130757) is recommended from here up.
• Stage 2+: the high-pressure fuel pump internals upgraded, for about 50 percent more flow than stock. That unlocks more boost, more timing and E85 blends. On a blend we tune to a target, E30 or E50, and you stick to it. It is not a flex tune.
• Stage 3: a K04 or a K04 hybrid, and either S3 injectors or the stock injectors with the pump upgrade. Also required: the RS4 fuel pressure relief valve and the upgraded diverter valve. A roller cam follower conversion is strongly recommended.
• Stage 4: custom work by nature. A big turbo, S3, RS3 or RS4 injectors, and the high-pressure and in-tank pumps upgraded. The factory MED9.1 caps the boost request at 2.5 bar absolute. We run the 5120 patch, which lifts that ceiling. Talk to us before you buy parts.
• Before any stage, the EA113 weak spots: the cam follower under the high-pressure pump is a wear item on every code, inspect it every 10,000 to 15,000 miles and replace it before it wears through. A rattle from the back of the engine on a cold start is the rear cam chain tensioner: stop and fix it before anything else. The PCV fails as a matter of routine and takes the rear main seal with it. Fresh coils and correctly gapped plugs before you flash, one step colder past Stage 2. Carbon on the intake valves is maintenance, walnut blast it every 60,000 to 80,000 miles. Three of these look like a bad tune. If the car feels off after a flash, send us a log first. The long version of every item is in the guide.

After you order

1. Order. Pick your stage, then choose Remote Tuning. A GTS cable ships with your order for a one-time $40 and it is yours to keep for every tune after this one.
2. Read. Plug the cable into the OBD port and a Windows laptop, Windows 10 or later. An Intel Mac on Boot Camp works too. Our software identifies your ECU and saves your original calibration before anything is written.
3. Flash. We build the calibration for your car, your hardware and your fuel. You get a message the moment it is ready, and you flash it yourself in your driveway in about ten minutes.
4. Log. Drive, log, send. If anything wants adjusting we adjust it and you flash again. Stage 2+ and up usually take a revision or two to dial in for the exact hardware and fuel. Revisions usually come back the same day, and within 72 hours at the outside.

Prefer to mail the ECU in? Mail-in is free within the USA and Canada. We flash it on the bench and send it back in two to three days. Local? An OBD flash at the shop takes 10 to 15 minutes. How remote tuning works, start to finish.

Options explained

• Stage: pick from the table above. Stage 1 for a stock car, Stage 2 once the exhaust is on, Stage 2+ with the pump upgrade, Stage 3 for a K04, Stage 4 for a big turbo build.
• Launch control: hard 2-step / antilag is an add-on, for off-road and competition use. Pick None if you do not want it.
• Pops and bangs: exhaust crackle on lift-off.
• Hard cut rev limiter: a hard fuel cut at the rev limit instead of the factory soft limiter.
• Mail or Remote: remote is what most owners pick. Mail-in if you would rather not touch a laptop. Dealer if a shop is doing the install for you, and we deal with them directly.